Today is my last day in the Italian capital before my move to Venice and last night I celebrated in style at a local restaurant in my neighbourhood of Talenti. As always, the food here was first rate but their wine list is rather basic (read 50 main courses compared to just 6 bottles of red) so on arriving home I popped the Allegrini Amarone Classico 2004 I'd bought last week.Monday, March 31, 2008
Allegrini Amarone Classico
Today is my last day in the Italian capital before my move to Venice and last night I celebrated in style at a local restaurant in my neighbourhood of Talenti. As always, the food here was first rate but their wine list is rather basic (read 50 main courses compared to just 6 bottles of red) so on arriving home I popped the Allegrini Amarone Classico 2004 I'd bought last week.Sunday, March 30, 2008
Allegrini Amarone
Allegrini Amarone is produced around ten miles east of beautiful Lake Garda in the Valpolicella classico region. The most distinctive character of Valpolicella wines are their very high alcoholic content (up to 16%) with the very best producers, Allegrini, Quintarelli, Tedeschi and Dal Forno successfully managing to create structurally excellent wines where the alcohol level does not stymie quality and overtake flavour.
Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella 2001 received the prestigious Tre Bicchere award and a 93 from WineSpectator. The 2006 releases from Allegrini represent the very best of top end affordability with the signature wine. Allegrini produce over half a million bottles annually and quality runs through the entire production with the cheapest wine, the La Grola '03, selling for under €10 and winning a Due Bicchere award.
The international wine buying market, particularly the American market doesn't seem to be terribly up to speed on Amarone. Take a look at any wine discussion board or along the shelves of a US supermarket or wine merchant and Amarone is glaring in its omission. Perhaps it's the raisin like potent style or maybe the market can simply not cope with a third Italian wine, Brunello and Barolo are foreign words enough, can we really expect a third to be remembered? And, Amarones inclusion would break the rule of B, don't underestimate this (Bordeaux, Burgundy). Dark red in the glass the 2006 has a simple cherry chocolate nose, some surprising mineral notes too. A very enjoyable, silky wine if a little simple and hot on the finish. Good value - 88 Points Where can I buy this wine? (Amarone '99)
Friday, March 28, 2008
Campania Wines
The coastline itself, when not dominated by concrete hotels is breathtaking and where I settled, at the Caruso Hotel in Ravello, I found the most fantastic view of the Mediterranean yet. I've lived in Spain and visited all the Costa's as well as the Tuscan, Lazio and Campania coastlines and here, sat precariously on a cliffs edge in Ravello I found the most beautiful vision of Italy yet.
Only a couple of week ago the whole area was completely crippled by sanitation strikes which ruined the image of Naples internationally. Photos and new footage of rubbish mountains in central areas of Naples caused the area huge embarrassment and badly effected the tourist trade. The Hotel Caruso itself is only starting to recover from the bad publicity with reservations for the hotel and the restaurant down 30% on the same time in 2007.
So what is Campanian Wine all about? The area is beginning finally to make use of its terroir and produce some wines worthy of the Tre Bicchere. While not overly blessed with D.O.C.G and D.O.C appellations, those it does have are increasing in quality year on year. The volcanic soil of Campania certainly produce something different, powerful reds and tangy zesty whites are coming out of the region in spades thanks to a couple of savvy producers. The area is also home to the white wine de jour of the Italian under 30 set, Falanghina.Where can I buy this wine? (Mastroberardino)
Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto
Bruno Giacosa makes arguably the world's best Barolo from his estates in the crus of La Morra and Serralunga the most revered being the Barolo Falletto (Serralunga) White Label and the Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Red Label. The red label bottles have cult status in the wine world fetching incredible prices at auction for the very best vintages.
Luckily I get my Giacosa Barolo from Italian Ebay and usually in magnum for a third of the price you fork over on top wine sites in the States and the UK. I have yet to purchase a 2004 but in anticipation am going to share my notes on the last 5 vintages I've had the pleasure of sampling. I hope to visit this estate in the coming summer and will bring back a report on all Bruno's wine's including the world's best Barbaresco and some rather good white numbers. Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 1998 - BUY - €85
Pale brick red colour, looks a little dirty and cloudier than the other wines we had but the hues were surprisingly dark for the age. A beautiful expressive nose the second it was uncorked, berries, cherry, strawberries; acres of ripe fruits. The palate was like velvet with complimentary tannins and exceptional length. Breathtaking. The wine came from magnum - 97 Points
Bruno Giacosa Barolo le Rocche de Falletto Riserva 1999 - BUY - €115
Tre Bicchieri Rocche del Falletto appears a clean mid red in the glass and quickly offers up a memorable nose, clean, fruit overload with strawberries showing quickly with a floral and mineral aroma playing backup. The palate is so rich, opulent and light, this is a very feminine, balanced and delicate wine. A wine that benefits from decanting and changes from hour to hour, really complex and enjoyable experience. The finish is among the longest I can recall. For those who loves a structured and complex wine - 96 Points
A really deep, intense ruby red with slight brownish hues typical of Barolo. Spectacular nose, truly opulent with plums, raspberries, and tar turning floral at the end. The palate is thick and jammy, really full bodied, sweet with berries and strikenly fresh and silky with perfectly balanced tannins. The finish is focused yet subtle and lasts a good half minute. Delicious wine that will improve over the next 10 years - 95 Points
Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2001 - BUY - €80
Lovely dark and rich ruby red. The nose is all Barolo for me, dark fruits, plummy, sweet, a little spicy with a nice mineral quality. The palate is really full and fruity, lush and thick with more of those dark fruits coming through on great silky tannis, really good finish to this wine, terrific length. The 2001 is a really solid effort, very satisfying - 94 Points
Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2003 - PASS - €70
The nose takes a long time to bring anything to the table, getting some vanilla and plums but really reticent nose here. The palate is better, very sweet and full boded, good tannic quality and a decent finish. Not much here yet. Blame the vintage - 90 Points
Where can I buy this wine? (98 Vintage)
Europeans - Enoteca San Dominico - €85
Americans - European Wine Resource - $128
Brits - Fine and Rare - £67
Question of the Day
If you could visit any vineyard in the world which would it be and why?
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio
Today is a fabulous day in the Sarah Newton household as finally the OK has come from the bank for my new villa just outside of Perugia in the Umbrian heartlands. For 6 months I've been ferrying around between the local comune, questura, bank and villa and finally everything is in place and I can finally relax, put up my aching tootsies and celebrate with a glass of something red and Voerzio.
Cerequio, along with Cannubi, is one of my favourite Barolo crus and seems to produce the better Barolo of the two major producers there, Voerzio and Chiarlo. Cerequio, situated in the communes of La Morra and Barolo is a beautiful area of the Piedmont. So, before I guzzle down the '04 I thought I'd go through some of my old tasting notes on past Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio wines. Opulence at its silkiest and most seductive, this is a superb Barolo with a flower filled nose with as pretty an aroma as I've ever sampled from a wine, some gentle spices and hints of coffee and chocolate complete a fabulous nose. The mouth feel is just gorgeous and alive, very delicate but still packing flavour and with fine tannins and a fine fruity mix in the mid palate. Can't think of many better Barolos from 1999. - 94 Points
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Tuscan Wines
Before you were a wine aficionado, as everyone surely is who reads this blog, you thought of Italian wines and imagined straw covered Chianti bottles sold in every third shop along a stupid steep hilltop town. Possibly you visited said towns, and maybe even purchased a bottle or two. Sadly, that is where the romantic idyll ends as from bitter experience you now know these offerings taste like swill.
Castello di Ama - Now we're talking Chianti Classico, superb producers of Italy's most famous wine in some of the finest terroir in the world. Producing elegant wines capable of ageing and not a rogue straw in sight. Proper Chianti for proper Chianti fans. The 2001 Bellavista and 2004 L'Apparita Vino da Tavola are outstanding.
Tenuta dell'Ornellaia - and losing to this bad boy. The Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia super tuscan is winning all the awards over the last couple of years and is one of Italy's most famous wines. However, it's not the only trick this producer has, even better than this super tuscan is the Toscana Masseto 100% Merlot table wine which noone I know will ever be able to find, rare and collectable.Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Bricco del Drago
Hey Ratfans,2005 was a star year in Sicily and Planeta is, in my opinion, the star producer in Sicily so almost all of the wines of this year from Planeta are superb. We have another dark wine in the glass, very dark purple, dark hues, could do with some time in the bottle. The nose was a little dull actually but definite hints of vanilla, blackberries and raspberries but again leads me to believe the wine should be left for a while. The palate was gorgeous, thick, jammy, fruity, very powerful, a little tannic but fulfilling. Giving it 89 today but thinking another couple of points may come thru in a couple of years time. - 89 Points
Friday, March 7, 2008
Venice on my Mind
Although I will be sad to leave Rome it does mean I can swap cheap Frascati for cheap Valpolicella and be much closer to my favourite wine regions of Italy for lots of exciting tasting weekends in Amarone and Barolo country. So, today I'll ease myself back in with a few of the more interesting tasting notes from the past couple of months starting with my new home wine that I need to get partisan about, Amarone, from Masi.
Masi Amarone 2004 - BUY - €30
Wonderful deep purple, very dark hues showing a clearly young wine the nose was super tight and even after two hours only the subtlest hint of blackberries and vanilla. On the palate though the wine was classic, great balance with still quite strong tannins, firm and fruity wine that held its 15% alcohol excellently, easy to drink, mid-palate giving some walnut action, will improve with age. 90 Points
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Pio Cesare Barbaresco 2001 - BUY - €40
An intense mid ruby red with darker hues than expected on a 2001 proving the class of this vintage. The nose was very sweet with some floral notes, strawberries and plums. Fruity palate, a real tasty wine, silky tannins. The overall impression here is of complexity and femininity, it's a really opulent Barbaresco for the price with a full 30 second finish. Another couple of years should see this wine at its premium drinking age. 92 Points
Cornell Chardonnay 2004 - BUY - €23
From the Alto Adige I was asked to try this Chardonnay after waxing lyrical about Planeta's Chardonnay and yes, this is completely different wine. More refreshing and light, the wine was a beautiful golden honey colour in the glass with a nose of apples, butter and a mix of citrus fruits. The palate was thicker than expected with a very smooth mouth-feel. A white wine at €23 had better be good, and it is. 91 Points
Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi 2003 - PASS - €20
Stunning in the glass, hugely dark purple, exceptionally dark hues, wine or petrol, I wasn't sure. The nose gave some interesting chocolate notes, with berries and cherries I expected and beef that I didn't. The palate was thick and jammy, the wine was quite tannic but not in an unpleasant way. Personally, I'm not jumping up and down for this, even at €10 I'd pass. 88 Points
Gaja Langhe Costa Russi 2001 - PASS - €200
Simply stunning, bolshy bruiser of a wine that you don't mind letting into your house and robbing you blind. Silky and engaging with a complex and beautiful nose with plum and cherries and an earthy mineral quality too. Fruity and oaky on the palate this is a class above and for a special occasion, huge and persist ant finish. How can I pass this wine? €200 is why. Birthdays, bah mitzvahs, Weddings okay, otherwise take 4 bottles of the 95 Point Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche 2000. 95 Points
Where can I buy this wine? (PC Barbaresco '01 - If you live in Italy it's sold everywhere no need to buy online!)
Europeans - Enoteca Constatini - €42
Americans - Mission Licquor - $45
Brits - Robert Granger - £29
Question of the Day
So, now you know what I've been doing but how about you guys? How has 2008 been treating you so far and what wines have been making the table this year? Share your exciting 2008 discoveries and I'll give them a whirl and review.